This is a "Gadwall"

Jim Frazier Presents!

 
 

Kate and Jim go to New Mexico and Arizona
"The Geology Tour"
November 2007

This fall, Kate and I decided, based on advice from some birding friends, to go to Albuquerque to see rosy-finches.  In the colder months, at Sandia Crest east of the city, all three rosy-finches come to feeders at the top of the mountain at over 10,000 feet.  So Kate and I decided to give it a shot.  And since we enjoy the southwest, we turned this into a 12 day trip (November 19 to November 30).  We started in Albuquerque and will finish the trip in Albuquerque.  Here are all of the trip photos - more will be added as this narrative progresses.

If you'd like to see a larger version of the picture, just click on it and you'll see it on Flickr.  Click on the "all sizes" icon above the picture to an even bigger version.

Part 1 Sandia Crest
Part 2 Four Corners
Part 3 Driving to Kayenta, Arizona

Part 4 Driving to Monument Valley

Part 5 Monument Valley Tribal Park

Part 6 Driving to Williams, Arizona

Part 7 Gunfight!

Part 8 The train to the Grand Canyon

Part 9 The Grand Canyon

Part 10 Oak Creek Canyon
Part 11 Tlaquepaque in Sedona
Part 12 Sedona to Phoenix
Part 13 Desert Botanical Museum in Phoenix
Part 14 Phoenix to Tucson

Part 15 Tucson to Hereford

Part 16 Casa de San Pedro
Part 17 Bisbee
Part 18 Sulphur Springs Valley and the Drive to Albuquerque
Part 19 Crest House at Sandia Crest


Part 1 - Sandia Crest Rosy-Finches

 Monday, November 19

We arrived after much hassles with American Airlines, including misplaced luggage and cancelled flights.  We drove a little way up to Sandia Crest, but the altitude (we had just flown in from about 800 feet Chicago) and the lack of light did us in.  But we did get some shots around the hotel.

Tuesday, November 20

Along the Sandia Crest Scenic Byway

After getting used to the altitude, we made it up to the Crest House at Sandia Crest and almost immediately got a Gray-crowned Rosy-Finch.  We enjoyed refreshments and warmth at the Crest House, and watched their feeders for a couple of hours, with flocks arriving at the feeders every 30 minutes or so.  Most of the birds were Black Rosy-Finches with only an occasional Gray-crowned, which I never got a shot of.  But Kate and I did walk away from the day with two lifers, views of other birds we rarely see, and hopes for the Brown-capped Rosy-Finch at the end of the trip. This takes care of the first goal of our trip, seeing Rosy-Finches. 

Black Rosy-Finch  

Here are all of the photos the trip up to Sandia Crest.


Part 2 - The Four Corners

Tuesday, November 20 

After getting two of the three Rosy-Finches, we headed off to Farmington, New Mexico on US 550, stayed overnight and moved on to the Four Corners via US 64 and US 160.   I've always wanted to do this.  It's touristy, but it's a part of the world I've never been to, and I have this affection for visiting unique geographic points.  Plus I had an idea for my 365 Day self-portrait.  US 550 between Albuquerque and Farmington is desolate, but beautiful.  I love this part of the world.  Not too many picture opportunities though - one fascinating mesa after another.  

Here are pix from the road to Farmington including 

Mesa

We overnighted in Farmington, NM and departed early the next day for the Four Corners.

Here are the pix from the road to Four Corners including

 On the Road to the Four Corners

And here are the pix from the Four Corners including

 What state of mind is Jim in?

Here are all of the pix from part 2

And this now takes care of the second goal for this trip, visiting the Four Corners.

Go back to the beginning of the trip.


Part 3 - Driving to Kayenta, Arizona

 Wednesday, November 21

Church Rock

After visiting the Four Corners, we headed for Kayenta, Arizona on US 160.   This involved a drive through a LOT of emptiness interrupted by some interesting geology.  The drive was fascinating, the light was wonderful, but it was desolate.  Very few towns and you passed through them pretty fast.  I barely had time to slow down going through town, and then I'd speed right back up again.  

Part of the problem with photographing all of this geology is scale.  Many of my pictures (I shot LOTS of pictures) just weren't that satisfying unless I could do something to show scale.  That's why the pictures by Baby Rocks Mesa include the buildings...to show how big these formations are.

Here are the pix from part 3


Part 4 - Driving to Monument Valley

Wednesday, November 21

Along US 163 on the Road to Monument Valley

Now the geology gets really interesting.  We made a right turn at Kayenta from US 160 and headed north on US 163 to the Utah border.  Straddling the Utah/Arizona line is Monument Valley Tribal Park.  I was surprised to find this out too.  Monument Valley is not a National Park.  It found its way to fame and glory when John Ford starting filming movies here with John Wayne.  

Our plan was to have lunch at the park's visitor center, shop, then take pictures. This way, I wouldn't be taking pictures during the worst light of the day, midday.  But when we pulled up to the entry gate, they had a sign up saying the restaurant and gift shop were closed. Dang! I'm NEVER gonna get my Navajo Fry Bread! 

Anyway, as we were turning off the highway into the park, we saw the sign for Goulding's Lodge across the road from the park. So we went there for lunch. I'm glad we did. They had a nice gift shop, restaurant and it was in an extraordinary setting.  

Goulding's Lodge Dining Room

And we killed enough time to get better light for our visit to the park.  We also got lucky in that the skies got bluer over lunch.  Most important of all, I got my Navajo fry bread.  

Finally got my Navajo Fry Bread!

Hmmm. 

The guy who started this lodge (Goulding) promoted Monument Valley to John Ford for Stagecoach. And the rest is history. The lodge was the base of operations for the various movie productions. 

Here are the pictures from part 4


Part 5 - Monument Valley Tribal Park

Wednesday, November 21

West Wall of Raingod Mesa

As mentioned in the previous section, this is not a national park, it's a Navajo Tribal Park.  

We got lucky by waiting through lunch.  The sun was at a more pleasing angle, and the clouds cleared with some beautiful blue skies.  We stopped at the visitor center to look at the view, then took our rented SUV (this is one of the reasons I wanted a high-clearance car) and drove into the park on a pretty rough dirt road.  We didn't bottom out the vehicle once, but I saw a lot of other cars that were having trouble.

Entering Monument Valley

The only problem is that it was a dirt road.  City folk don't realize that, when you drive on a dirt road, you leave a cloud of dust in your trail.  So whenever we stopped, we had to be wary of someone approaching us driving as fast as he could go, and then wait for a couple of minutes for the dust to settle before taking pictures, walking around, etc.  This is not a time to be changing lenses on your digital SLR.

Lone Tree

Goats on West Side of Raingod Mesa

We spent a couple of hours driving around the park until we had taken enough photos and the sky started clouding up.  We headed back to Kayenta on US 163.  We finished up the day photographing Church Rock again, with the late afternoon sun.  

The Last Shot of the Day

We overnighted at the Holiday Inn in Kayenta where we got, you guessed it, more Navajo Fry Bread.  Hmmmmm.

Here are the pictures from Monument Valley Tribal Park.


Part 6 - Driving to Williams Arizona

Thursday, November 22 (Thanksgiving)

 Today turned out to be train day.  Except we had some car trouble in the morning.  

Warning lights on the SUV kept telling me I had a tire pressure problem.  But of 4 gas stations on the corner of US 160 and US 163 in Kayenta, only one had a working air pump and it cost me 50 cents.  Plus I had to buy a tire gauge.  We will continue to have problems with this for the duration of the trip.  I'm still not sure if it was the tires or the constant changes in elevation.  But it was moderately annoying.  And when I complained to the car rental company, they did give me a free day.  So that's somethin'  

We started west on US 163 through Tuba City to US 89, then headed south to Flagstaff.  I didn't take too many pictures.  I was getting a little tired of geology and brown photos.  So are you, I'm sure.

We saw an electrified line west of Kayenta, click on either of the pictures to see more information.

 Electric Railroad in Arizona?  Danger  50,000 Volts Overhead

And finally got to photograph some trains in Flagstaff  

 BNSF 5841 Westbound at the Amtrak Station 1

 BNSF 5841 Westbound at the Amtrak Station 2

We finished up the day in Williams, Arizona.  We'll be boarding the Grand Canyon Railway  for the trip to the south rim of the Grand Canyon tomorrow morning.

 Grand Canyon Railway 6776

We had our Thanksgiving dinner at the depot restaurant (Max and Thelma's) and it was a zoo.  I think that most of Williams, Arizona goes out for Thanksgiving dinner at this place.  It actually wasn't too bad once you got past the crowds.

Here are all the pictures from today, part 6


Part 7 - Gunfight!

Friday November 23

 The Smart One

Before we boarded the train for the Grand Canyon, we watched a gunfight next to the depot.  We both thought it would be dopey, but it actually was pretty funny.  There were several jokes involving horse...well...you kinda had to be there.

Here are the pictures from the gunfight.


Part 8 - The train to the Grand Canyon

Friday November 23

Grand Canyon Railway 6776

After the gunfight, we hopped right onto the Grand Canyon Railway.  Because we were staying for free at most of the hotels on the trip (I stay at a LOT of hotels - I got points), we decided to splurge for the luxury car on our trip.  It was glorious.  They have a platform on the back of the parlor car where we were, and I took LOTS of pictures from there.  The seating was comfortable and there were snacks.  It was a great ride.

 Kate and the Chief

After the taking a bus tour of the south rim, and lunch (the only part of this trip which I'd recommend people pass on...it was like eating in a high school cafeteria), we took the train back.  There was more observation platform riding, and snacks.  

 Railroad to the Grand Canyon

Here are all pictures from the train to the Grand Canyon


Part 9 - The Grand Canyon

Friday November 23

After the train ride to the Grand Canyon, we walked from the depot to the south rim near the El Tovar Hotel.  One of the highlights was this shot of a California Condor sailing right over us.

 California Condor

Then to the bus, lunch (see above) and then three stops:

Trailview Overlook

 At Trailview Overlook

Maricopa Point

 From Maricopa Point

and Hopi Point

 From Hopi Point

After we Hopi Point, we high-tailed it back to the train -- our driver cut it pretty close.  

Here are all the pictures from the Grand Canyon

Part 10 Oak Creek Canyon

Saturday November 24

We left Williams on Saturday morning (after a final shot of the Grand Canyon Railway's Alco) and drove down to Sedona.  

 One Final Shot

Several folks has strongly insisted that we take the scenic drive on Highway 89A which went through Oak Creek Canyon.  It was pretty, particularly when we drove along the bottom of the canyon.  The geology wasn't that exciting, if only because we had been to Monument Valley and the Grand Canyon in the previous couple of days.  It would have been much more impressive if we had visited this area first, then went north to the big GC.  But we both agreed we could see visiting the area again. Maybe even pick up one of the many houses we saw for sale, if we could find one for $100,000 or so.  ;-)

Arizona State Route 89A Oak Creek Canyon

Part 11 Tlaquepaque in Sedona, Arizona

Saturday November 24

Tlaquepaque

I read in the AAA book that Tlaquepaque was an interesting shopping mall for art and gifts in Sedona.  Since that was our mission, and it was right just off 89A as we came into town, we settled in for the day.  We bought lots of stuff .  I also took the camera since the AAA book said that it was interesting architecturally.  Kate shopped and I took pictures; you just can't beat that. 

Kate Enjoys Her Iced Tea

I'd come back to Sedona just to visit this mall again.  That AAA book sure paid off!  Here's a history of the place.   

See all of the pictures from Tlaquepaque


Part 12 Sedona to Phoenix

Saturday and Sunday, November 24, 25

After Sedona, we continued on 89A to Jerome, an old mining town that has turned into another "quaint" artist colony.  

 Jerome, Arizona

More contributions to the Arizona tourism industry and we finished the day in Phoenix.  

On Sunday, we went to the Unitarian Universalist Church in Surprise.  Our associate minister interned there and I wanted to photograph it for my project.  Nice service, but I like our church better.  (grin)

 Unitarian Universalist Church


Part 13 Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix

November 25

Desert-fern Tree

After church, we considered a couple of things to do in Phoenix and settled on the Desert Botanical Garden.  I wanted to take some plant pictures, and there are birds there.  We've been to this place before and enjoyed it.  This was the ONLY time during the entire trip where we walked around in shirt sleeves.  It was nice to be hot for a change.

See all the pictures from the Desert Botanical Garden

We spent several hours there, and then headed south to Tucson.

Part 14 Phoenix to Tucson

November 25 and 26

After the Desert Botanical Museum, we headed southeast on Interstate 10.  I was hoping that we'd have a chance to see Picacho, Arizona before the light faded.  I had read that it was a good spot for seeing some trains.  As it turned out, I 10 traffic slowed to a crawl (there was an accident) so the exit we were looking for worked out for us anyway.  The UP's line runs along the frontage road and, after spotting a train coming from the northwest, I stopped at a primitive grade crossing and snapped off a few pictures.  At the last moment, I noticed a Saguaro cactus and tried to get it into the picture as well.

UP 3910 and 5154 Eastbound in Picacho, Arizona

We drove a little further south along the frontage road and saw another train coming from the southeast.  Again, a pull-off, this time with some mountains in the background.   

UP 2293 and 2349 Westbound at Picacho, Arizona

We overnighted in Tucson and then, first thing the following morning, we drove a few miles further east on I 10 to Vail, where we followed the frontage road (Marsh Station Road) to a neat spot.  The double-tracked UP line splits and one track crosses over the other.  And there's a beautiful road bridge there as well.  Kate and I spent about an hour waiting, but there were no trains.  But we had a chance to visit with Rick, a local railfan.  He gave us the low-down on lots of Arizona railroad subjects.  It was a very enjoyable wait.  

Marsh Station Road

And this is the highway bridge (Marsh Station Road)

Marsh Station Road

We then went back into Tucson and bought Kate a laptop (she’d been hogging mine and she's gonna need one anyway).  We dropped in at Best Buy and bought a Compaq for a surprisingly low price. Vista, though (bummer).


Part 15 Tucson to Hereford

November 26

One of my favorite things about traveling west is Jack-in-the-Box.  We don't have them in the Chicago area.  There's just something about those tacos. Maybe it's the grease - I dunno.  Amazingly, Kate likes 'em too.

Hmmm.  That's one tasty taco

After a delightful lunch, we drove east on I 10 from Tucson to Benson, Arizona, another train place.  It was actually pretty busy - I'd say 2 to 3 trains per hour.  

UP 4176 Eastbound and Downhill

Their Amtrak station ain't exactly a glorious piece of architecture.

Amtrak Station

After Benson, we headed south to Hereford where we planned to spend a couple of nights. And I managed to pick up our EAT sign for the trip in Huachuca City.

EAT - Good Food Café

Here are all the pictures from part 15


Part 16 Casa de San Pedro

November 27 and 28

Curved-billed Thrasher

We spent two nights at Casa de San Pedro, a bed and breakfast in Hereford, Arizona.  We had stayed there a couple of years ago and remembered it fondly, so we thought we'd give it another shot.  This place has now risen to one of our most favorite places to stay (the other is the Church Hill Inn in Sister Bay, Wisconsin).  The room was comfortable and decorated very nicely, there are birds everywhere (they have lots of feeders), and the breakfasts are wonderful.  We both highly recommend the place.  And we plan to go back really soon.

See all of the pictures from Casa de San Pedro


Part 17 Bisbee, Arizona

November 27 and 28

US Post Office

Bisbee is one of the more bizarre little towns in America.  There must be a law that requires the locals to act weird.  On the other hand, maybe it's like Williamsburg...the whole "old town" is a set.  Many of the locals act so far out, you'd think it was a put-on.

How many places do you see a sign painted on the wall about not peeing here?

Don't Pee Here

Or signs slamming, well, Phish?

Jerry's Dead

Speaking of sets, on the 28th, we stopped in Bisbee on the way out of town for some coffee (there is a very good espresso shop in town), and we found a movie being filmed along the main street.  It didn't look like a very high budget operation.  There were no artificial lights and the scene wasn't really correct.  There were electric wires and streetlights overhead, a red-painted curb, and concrete streets.  And I saw a Styrofoam cup bounce across the scene while they were filming.  

On the Movie Set

See of the pictures from Bisbee


Part 18 Sulphur Springs Valley and the Drive to Albuquerque

We went birding in Sulphur Springs Valley east of Bisbee on November 27th and finished the day at Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area, a great birding place.  It's a wintering location for Sandhill Cranes, and we saw a lot of them.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife AreaSandhill Cranes

Then, after stopping in Bisbee on the 28th, we headed west through Douglas and then on up to southwestern New Mexico and then to Interstate 10.  At Las Cruces, we turned north on I 25 and finished the drive in Albuquerque at the same Marriott we stayed at the first night of the trip.

See all of the pictures from part 18


Part 19 Crest House at Sandia Crest

Our plan was to finish our trip in Albuquerque to take a second shot at the Rosy-finches.  This was in case we didn't get all three on the first attempt, which was the case.  Well, we got very lucky.  There was a lot of snow on the ground up there.

Gray-capped Rosy-FinchGray-capped Rosy-Finch

Brown-capped Rosy-FinchGray-capped Rosy-Finch

 

Which meant LOTS of Rosy-finch activity at the feeders.  We spent the morning watching the birds, taking LOTS of photos (about 500), enjoyed the food, and got all three species in abundance.  The pictures I got aren't fantastic, but they're good enough for me.  

See all of the pictures from part 19

In the afternoon, we found ourselves with time on our hands, so we drove up to Santa Fe.


Go back to the beginning of the trip.

 

 

 

 

 

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